C: “No, look at that. There is a fracture. And there also. And at this spot, well, I’m not so sure.” I scream because the traumatologist is hard of hearing.
Traumatologist: “Nah, there’s nothing.”
C: “Yes there is, look at that!”
Traumatologist: “All right, show me your foot. I’d say we agree that it’s just a tiny bit broken.”
C: “And how long am I not allowed to walk properly with my tiny bit?”
Traumatologist: “Oh, well. In three weeks time you’ll be as good as new.”
We are now in Sucre, the capital of Bolivia. Two weeks ago I twisted my foot while playing Wally. Wally is the Bolivian version of volleyball. You also play it in a gymnasium, but the walls can also be used. Like in squash. Super funny game, but unfortunately I blocked too aggressive at the net, jumped and twisted my foot outwards. It was a massive pain at the beginning. So much that I fainted for a short time. But before that I was able to warn Matthias. “Matthias, very soon I might become briefly unconscious, you must lay me down and my legs up.” Buff. Lights off, almost. Oh man. The Bolivians help us, bring ice cubes for cooling, organize a taxi. I ask Matthias to buy opiates. You can get them here in the pharmacy without a prescription. With these I manage to stay pain-free during the first night. The following day is – oh man – the day of pedestrians in Bolivia. No taxis or cars allowed. Only the day after we go to the X-ray. The radiologist does not see a fracture. I send the pictures to a vascular surgery friend, a radiologist and a traumatologist in Germany. Result: probably two fractures in the ankle joint. Possibly even three. I should wear an orthosis with an air cushion (similar to a ski boot) or a plaster cast for 6 weeks. And only little strain. We organize crutches for me and Heparin as injections. Heparin is so expensive that I choose the Bolivian generic. Is that a good idea? I call the insurance company. They agree with everything: Return to Germany or local therapy in Bolivia. They would cover both.
Good. We think back and forth. Abort our trip? What are the advantages? Do I urgently need an MRI? And German physiotherapy afterwards? Or do we continue our journey? Will I harm my foot by that? What are they worse at here compared to Germany? And what does Matthias do when I learn to walk again in Germany with physiotherapy? Apply? But where? As what?
After four days we have found a suitable orthosis for me. Step by step we approach the therapy I need. Fortunately we are in Sucre. And fortunately again we moved to another Airbnb to a family shortly before. Everything is on the ground floor or “barrier-free”, as it is so beautifully called. Taxis are available here en masse, so we can get anywhere. X-ray, traumatologist, orthosis, heparin, supermarkets, cinema, Internet with Netflix: everything available. I could even have physiotherapy here. The best part: My Spanish teacher comes to visit me at home. Our originally planned two weeks of language lessons are now more likely to become five or six. But okay, Matthias wanted to improve his Spanish anyway.
During the day I manage well with my crutches. But sleeping in the orthosis at night is difficult. It slips, you wake up with pain. Totally stupid. We think about how to obtain the lighter, smaller, air-padded version of the orthosis. Amazon.de does not deliver to Bolivia. But Amazon.com maybe. Whether the shipment from the USA will work is not clear. Bolivia has high import duties and maybe we won’t get the package out of customs at all. Or we have to drive to La Paz. We will see about that. We also have to extend our visa. Our first 30 days are almost over. That should also work here in Sucre.
How long are we going to be here? Let’s have a look, probably another two or three weeks. The jungle of Bolivia and also Lake Titicaca have to wait for another time. With crutches the next stop will be a country with good infrastructure until I can walk again.
The title photo was taken at the beginning of our trip. These gummy bears we had bought before departure with the knowledge that SHIT HAPPENS.
