… is the title of a book by Stephan Orth. We have both read or heard this book and perhaps it is one of the reasons why we are now in Iran. In the book, the Spiegel author describes his experiences in Iran with the hosts he encounters. You have to know that couchsurfing is illegal in Iran. Likewise, the website can only be reached with obstacles. Nevertheless, there are countless enthusiastic hosts in Iran offering a place in their four walls for travellers.
In Shiraz alone, more than 1000 hosts were available at the time of our visit. How the hell do you chose? The offer ranges from cool guys with sunglasses, married women, unmarried women to families with children. Oh look, a dentist who speaks German and wants to continue learning. But unfortunately, he can’t. All right, keep looking, here’s an engineer named Moji (as in Emoji) with a friendly smile and fantastic reviews. He immediately accepts, he lives with his parents outside Shiraz and insists on picking us up from the bus station. We are happy to be living with a normal Iranian family now. We shyly venture into the house of the family. We meet mother and sister, both wearing headscarves. The mother rather traditional clothes. We are served a delicious breakfast immediately. People eat on the floor here too. Our sleeping place is also a mattress on the floor in Moji’s room, which he is clearing especially for us. The famous Iranian hospitality is now beginning to unfold. We’re constantly offered meals and Conny can take off the headscarf in the house. After all, they are very interested in Conny’s blond hair. It doesn’t take long and we are declared as part to the family. With Moji we discuss politics and the differences between Germany and Iran. Particularly exciting: how does it work with getting to know each other between man and woman in our company? We learn about the importance of the family in Iran and the education system. Moji’s sister has to prepare for the university entrance test after school. Two years are allotted for this. Much depends on this test, only the best in the country are allowed to study medicine and can hope for a very good salary as a doctor or dentist. Moji’s sister also has this goal, which explains the effort.
I was a Couchsurfing host myself in Dresden and I liked to take care of my guests, but Moji and his family are a class of their own. We feel a little bad because we can’t give it all back. Since there was no room for presents in our backpack, we decided to cook for the family. We can’t use pork and quark, but for a Kaiserschmarrn all the ingredients should be available. German butter and the rest can be found in the “Hyperstar”. We have to make applesauce from fresh apples. Moji turns out to be a professional egg white foam maker by hand. In the end, everyone is very satisfied and the Austrian dessert seems to have been well received.
After dinner we dare to ask Moji how religious he and his family are. He openly replies that he is less religious, but his parents and sisters are a little more. His mother adds that despite all the traditions, this is no problem. On the contrary, openness and tolerance are part of the family. If you can’t easily travel abroad yourself, then you invite the world to your home with couchsurfers.
Farewell is very difficult for us. We should please stay one more day. In the end, we’re on the bus. The heating runs at 35 degrees Celsius and a bizarre Modern Talking cover sounds in Farsi.
